창의문(자하문)

Changuimun Gate, also known as Jahamun Gate, is one of the Four Small Gates built amid the Four Great Gates during the construction of the City Wall in 1396 (the 5th year of King Taejo's reign). Later, in 1416 (the 16th year of King Taejong's reign), the gate was temporarily closed, allowing entry only upon the king's command. This action was due to the pungsujiri (geomancy) interpretation suggesting that Changuimun Gate was exerting pressure on Gyeongbokgung Palace. Located in Baegaksan Mountain between the Seodaemun and Bukdaemun gates, Changuimun Gate is the only gate among the Four Small Gates to retain its original structure. During the Injobanjeong or the Coup of 1623, Yi Gwal and Yi Gwi washed their swords at Segeomjeong and entered the palace through Changuimun Gate. Additionally, an image of a pair of phoenixes was carved atop the rainbow shape to ward off numerous centipedes that gathered in front of the gate, as they were believed to fear hens and roosters. The gate tower, which stands to this day, was constructed in 1741 (the 17th year of King Yeongjo's reign). Notably, its stonework is identical to that of the Sungnyemun and Heunginjimun gates. The gate's roof, characterized by double eaves and a gentle slope, exudes an elegant appearance. Gyeomjae Jeong Seon, a renowned Korean landscape painter from the Joseon Dynasty, depicted the gate within the natural setting of Baegaksan Mountain, surrounded by pine groves, a valley, and Buchimbawi Rock. Originally serving as a route leading to both Yangju and Bukhansanseong Fortress), Changuimun Gate had been closed for centuries due to pungsujiri analysis (geomantic principles) until its reopening in 1506 (the 1st year of King Jungjong's reign). Presently, the gate, which overlooks Seoul, is closed to traffic, as its original function has been supplanted by the western road.

"Hello? My name is Kim Gyeonghwa, and I'm here to be your guide on 'The Path of Independence and Quislingism.' 아, I understand my name might not ring a bell for most of you. I attended Paiwha Girls' School more than a century ago, and I'm proud of the meaningful role I played during that era. Now, since my old school, Paiwha Girls' School, is part of this course, I've been given the honor of being your guide. I hold a deep affection for this neighborhood. It warms my heart to revisit the paths I once walked to school and the places where I used to spend time with my friends. But most of all, I'm overjoyed that my alma mater, nestled on the foot of Inwangsan Mountain, still stands warmly and proudly. But it does bring about some mixed feelings when it comes to introducing the events that took place here and the people who lived in this neighborhood. Now, let's embark on the 'The Path of Independence and Quislingism.' The route I'll be guiding you through traces the footsteps of modern historical figures on the eastern side of Inwangsan Mountain. First, let's introduce the neighborhood. The backdrop of this area is Inwangsan Mountain which surrounds the northwestern part of Hanyang, the capital of the Joseon Dynasty, which is present-day Seoul. Located to the west of Gyeongbokgung, the grandest royal palace of the Joseon dynasty, Inwangsan Mountain is a majestic rocky mountain, adorned with lush forests and clear streams. So, in the early days of the Joseon Dynasty, it was a place where royal family members, enjoying high social status but somewhat distant from political power, chose to reside and embraced the beauty of nature. The atmosphere underwent a significant change from the late Joseon period to modern times. Those in power began to visit Inwangsan Mountain to appreciate its landscapes, and during the period when our sovereignty was threatened, pro-Japanese collaborators even built elaborate homes here. Furthermore, Its proximity to Hanyang, Gyeongseong, and later Seoul, which now lies at the center of the city, made it a place where modern scholars and artists contemplated and created their works while trying to capture the spirit of their times. Speaking of literature, it is still a bit challenging for me Now, would you like to take a walk with me through the beauty of nature and the rich history along the slopes of Inwangsan Mountain? Our first stop is the Yun Dongju Literary Museum. "

This place is quite famous. The Literary Museum here has a unique appearance. Yun Dongju Literary Museum was established by renovating the Cheongun Waterworks Booster Station and its water tank. It's truly remarkable to think that a massive water tank has been repurposed into an exhibition space. While literature might still be a bit challenging for me, I have a sense that this space, which once carried water through the waterworks, now conveys an abundance of literary spirit to people. The concept of using the waterworks booster station as a literary museum was inspired by the image of a well depicted in Yun Dongju's poem 'Self-Portrait. Though the space isn't very large, it houses Yun Dongju's works, letters, and personal belongings, offering a vivid recollection of the young poet who cherished our language and our literature. The presence of the Yun Dongju Literary Museum in this spot has a strong connection to Yun Dongju Hill situated just above it. It's told that Yun Dongju, during his years of study in Seoul, used to stroll and contemplate in this area with friends, where he contemplated and composed some of his most renowned poems, including 'Seo-si' and ‘The Night of Counting Stars.’ Yun Dongju Hill is home to a memorial stone commemorating the exquisite poem ‘Seo-si.' Reading this poem has a soothing effect on me, and at the same time, it also evokes a warm feeling. I might have gone on a bit of a tangent there. Here's an interesting story. When they put in this memorial stone, they apparently brought soil from the poet's grave in Bukgan-do Yongjeong to this location. So, you could say it's yet another space where the poet's footsteps are preserved. Now, shall we take a moment to learn more about the poet Yun Dongju? It took a bit of research, but it was truly rewarding. Poet Yun Dongju was born in 1917 in Myeongdong-chon, Bukgan-do. He's actually much younger than me, isn't he? Haha. By the way, Myeongdongchon was a Korean settlement established by immigrants from Hamgyeong-do in 1899, and it was a place where new learning and Protestantism were embraced from an early age. The poet attended Myeongdong School in this area. Yun Dongju began composing poetry and reading numerous books from a young age, but it was when he entered Yeonhui College in 1938 that he truly blossomed. There, he attended lectures by Korean linguist Choi Hyeonbae on the Korean language, historian Son Jintae on history, and English scholar Lee Yangha on literature. These experiences helped nurture his sensitivity towards our nation's language, writing, and spirit. In fact, I hold the teachings of my alma mater, Paiwha Girls' School, in high regard as well. Especially, I miss figures like Mr. Namgung Eok, a journalist and modern Enlightenment thinker, and Mrs. Cha Mirisa. Mrs. Cha Mirisa guided us on how to think and act as Koreans and intellectuals, regardless of being a woman. Now, Let's continue with the story of Yun Dongju, the poet. Yun Dongju grappled with the harsh reality of his homeland being a colony and his own identity as someone born in Bukgan-do, which was beyond the ambiguous border of the nation. He expressed these thoughts through his poetry. Yun Dongju, who often viewed life and the world through his poetry, went through a period of not writing any poems for a whole year. It was when the war began engulfing everything. The poet couldn't write poetry for a while due to his inner struggles, but later, he presented verses that candidly expressed his wanderings and dilemmas. His famous work, ‘Seo-si' was created during this period. After graduating from Yeonhui College, Yun Dongju left for Japan in 1942 to pursue his studies. However, while in Japan, he and his cousin Song Mongkyu were arrested by Japanese police on charges related to the 'Joseon independence movement.' As it is widely known, he tragically became a subject of human experimentation and lost his life in Fukuoka Prison. While his pure and innocent soul was extinguished, Yun Dongju possessed another dimension to his character. In 2010, the trial records of Yun Dongju were made public. During his trial in Japan, he courageously voiced his beliefs, saying, 'We must nurture the skills and national identity of Joseon peoples to establish the groundwork for the independence movement,' and he emphatically declared, 'For the liberation of Joseon, Japan must be defeated in the Greater East Asian War.’ Yun Dongju had intended to publish his poems before going to study in Japan, but under Japanese colonial rule, his poems couldn't be published. It was only after liberation that his poetry collection, titled 'Heaven, Wind, Stars, and Poetry,' could finally see the light of day. Let's now take our steps to another location where his legacy is preserved. Yun Dongju may have once walked the path you're on right now. How does that make you feel? Doesn't it evoke something special within you? It's indeed a blessing that we can now freely read and appreciate Yun Dongju's poems. Now, from here, I'll lead you along the Inwangsan Forest Trail towards Suseong-dong Valley. This is the path that follows the Inwangsan Beltway, a creation that emerged as a result of the 1.21 Incident' we talked about earlier. It's a trail consisting of wooden walkways and hiking paths along the foothills of Inwangsan Mountain. It might be a bit of a journey, but shall we walk together while listening to his poems? (Recites several poems) <Seosi (Prelude)> Until the day I die, I wish I will have no shame when I look up at the sky. It pains me to see even the wind rustling the leaves. I will love every dying thing like singing the stars. And I will walk the only path that is laid out before me. Tonight again, the wind is rustling the stars. <Jahwasang (Self-portrait)> I walked around the spur of the mountain to a remote well by the rice field and I looked into it, in silent solitude. In the well, the moon was bright, the clouds were passing, the sky was big, the blue wind was blowing, and the autumn was there. And there was a man. I didn't like the man I saw for some reason, so I turned around and left. On second thought on my way back though, I felt sorry for the man. So I go back there, and see the man still in the well. I didn't like the man I saw again, so I turned around and left. On second thought on my way back though, I missed the man. In the well, the moon was bright, the clouds were passing, the sky was big, the blue wind was blowing, the autumn was here, and there was a man like an old memory. <Gil (Street)> I lost something. I didn’t know what and where I lost it, so I rummage through my pockets with both of my hands and I go out to the street. There are stones, stones, and stones and the street winds through the endless stone wall. The wall with a locked iron gate casts a shadow over the street and the street runs from the morning to the evening. It runs from the evening to the morning. I touch the stone wall and shed some tears. But when I look at the sky, it’s so blue that it makes feel ashamed. The reason I walk this street that is so barren without any plants, is because there is another me from the past on the other side of the wall. I just keep on living only because I’m still looking for something I lost. Strolling with his poems feels like strolling beside the poet. The view is breathtaking as you reflect on his verses. It's truly remarkable, isn't it? When I was in school, more than a hundred years ago, Seoul was called Gyeongseong. The atmosphere of the Joseon era and the essence of the Korean Empire, established in 1897, were still very much alive. Giwajip, where Joseon people congregated, adorned the city and the hillsides. However, there were new, massive buildings that had emerged, unlike anything seen before. The most notable among these was the immense Japanese Government-General of Korea that stood across from Geunjeongjeon Hall of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Additionally, the Joseon Shrine on Namsan, was constructed as if to dominate the land of Joseon. But now, it has become the Seoul we are familiar with today. Seoul—what an inspiring name it holds. As I look at Seoul, it feels as though tears could well up. When you think about it, 'we' are truly remarkable and extraordinary individuals. Let's move forward with our journey to the next destination.

"Thank you for making the effort to reach Changuimun Gate. Changuimun Gate is one of the gates in Hanyangdoseong. Located between the northern gate Sukjeongmun Gate and the western gate Donuimun Gate, it served as the northwest entry point to Hanyang. The area below Changuimun Gate is presently Cheongun-dong, but was formerly calledJaha-gol, which is why the gate is often more commonly known as Jahamun Gate. During the Joseon period, it functioned as a space separating the inside and outside of Hanyangdoseong. Today, it serves as an entrance to the heart of Seoul's city center in Jongno. During the Injo Restoration, the event in which Prince Gwanghae abdicated and King Injo ascended the throne, the rebels were compelled to open the sealed gate and enter the city. Even today, the names of those involved in the Injo Restoration are inscribed on the memorial stone. After the Japanese Invasions of Korea between 1592 and 1598, Bukhansanseong Fortress was constructed, and subsequently, Tangchundaeseong Fortress was also constructed. With the opening of Changuimun Gate, it began to function as an entrance gate like other city gates. Despite its small size, it played a vital role in connecting Hanyangdoseong with the northwest. Even during the January 21st Incident, 31 armed communist guerrillas tried to enter Cheong Wa Dae by passing through here. It was a tense situation, and I'll continue the story as we pass through Changuimun Gate and go a little further down. You'll be able to spot me there too. "

"Now, can you see me? Yes, that's right. The person depicted in the bust sculpture is Sergeant Jung Jongsoo, and the full-body statue standing beside him is me, Choi Gyusik. I served as the Chief of Jongno Police Station in 1968. On the night of January 21, 1968, I received a call from the Jahamun Checkpoint, which was under the jurisdiction of Jongno Police Station, reporting that there were some suspicious individuals. They identified themselves as members of a special forces unit and disregarded police intervention, proceeding towards the city center. We received a report stating that something seemed suspicious. I also found it suspicious, so without any delay, I rushed to the Changuimun Gate area with the Quick Reaction Force(QRF). There, we encountered the armed communist guerrillas. At that moment, a city bus happened to pass by, and the guerrillas, mistaking it for our reinforcements, began throwing grenades and firing their weapons. This led to a life-and-death firefight. As the communist guerrillas realized that advancing further on the main road was difficult, they attempted to scatter. I also moved forward at that moment. But heavens, I was shot. However, with my last ounce of strength, I managed to regain consciousness and gave the order to 'protect Cheong Wa Dae.' As you may be aware, a joint effort by the police and the military resulted in a fierce battle, leading to the deaths of the majority of 31 armed communist guerrillas. The only one we managed to capture alive was Kim Sinjo. In fact, we suffered significant casualties on our side as well. A total of 75 people, including myself and Sergeant Jung Jongsoo, were injured or lost their lives. There were also 7 civilian casualties, which is truly tragic. Such tragedies should never happen again. Nevertheless, if a similar incident were to occur, I believe that our younger police officers would do their best, just as I did. After January 21, 1968, I was no longer able to carry out my duties. However, while standing here, I've witnessed South Korea undergo significant changes and development. I’ve seen this place, which resembled a battlefield at the time, transform into a welcoming destination for both locals and foreigners to enjoy. Though there is still some lingering attachment, I can now smile, knowing that I fulfilled my duty. Also, I'm delighted to share with all of you the things I've witnessed and heard in this place. My guidance isn't over yet. If you cross the street and walk on the right side, in the opposite direction of the city, you'll find Buam-dong Community Center. Follow the alley next to the community center, and you'll arrive at Mugyewon, which was established in 2014. That's where I'll conclude today's mission. I understand it's been quite a walk to reach this point, but just a little more effort as we make our way to the final stop of Route 1. "