남해대교

[A Great Star Falls at Gwaneumpo: Walking in Memory of Yi Sun-sin] Welcome to the Battle of Noryang section, the final section of the Yi Sun-sin Victory Trail and the battle that brought the seven-year war to its close. This trail honors the final moments of Chungmugong Yi Sun-sin, who gave everything he had to save his country, as well as the countless heroes who fought beside him to the end. On the night of the eighteenth day of the eleventh lunar month in 1598, torches and fire arrows burned brighter than moonlight over the waters of Noryang. The seven-year Imjin War was drawing to a close. Japanese forces were preparing to withdraw from Joseon, and a large fleet headed for Noryang Strait to rescue Japanese troops isolated in Suncheon. The Joseon navy under Admiral Yi Sun-sin and the Ming navy under Chen Lin blocked the Japanese retreat. Noryang Strait is a narrow stretch of sea between Namhaedo Island and Hadong. Its currents are strong, and there are many islands and reefs, so that once ships become entangled there, they cannot easily get out. As the night deepened, the allied Joseon and Ming navies launched their attack. Drums and cannon fire echoed across the dark sea as fire arrows streaked through the night sky. Caught by surprise, the Japanese fought back desperately because their last route home had been blocked. Japanese ships closed in on the Joseon and Ming vessels, firing matchlock muskets and trying to board them. Hundreds of ships became entangled in the narrow waters of Noryang. Smoke from the cannon and from burning ships covered the sea, and the battle became a melee in which friend and foe were hard to tell apart. At the center of the battle, Admiral Yi beat the drum as he directed his men. The drumbeat told the men where their commander was, serving both as an order and a source of courage. The battle went on all night. As dawn approached, the Japanese formation began to collapse. The allied Joseon and Ming navies pursued the fleeing Japanese forces to the last. Just then, a bullet fired by the Japanese struck Admiral Yi. Admiral Yi was mortally wounded. But if his death became known, the soldiers might waver, and the course of a battle that was nearly over could change. His last words are passed down as follows: The battle is at its height. I beg you, do not speak of my death. Admiral Yi's death was made known only to a few people close by, including his son Yi Hoe and his nephew Yi Wan. Accounts differ as to who concealed the admiral's death and carried on commanding, but the drumbeat from the flagship and the commands given from there continued until the battle was over. The Joseon navy fought on through the final battle without knowing that the admiral had passed away. The drum did not stop, and the Japanese fleet withdrew after suffering heavy losses. Only after the battle ended was Admiral Yi's death made known. Over the sea where victory had been won, wailing spread rather than cheers. The Battle of Noryang was the last victory of the Imjin War. The withdrawing Japanese fleet suffered heavy losses, and the war that had lasted seven years came to an end. But this sea is not simply a site of victory. It is the sea where Admiral Yi Sun-sin fought his final battle, holding his post until the very moment the war ended. Now, let us follow the path along the sea where cheers of victory and deep sorrow met that day. The trail runs from the Gohyeon-myeon area, home to the Tripitaka Koreana Woodblock Culture Center, along the Gwaneumpo embankment and past Gwaneumpo Cheommangdae Observatory, Yi Sun-sin Sea Park, Iraksan Mountain, Gupomisan Mountain, Wolgok Village, Gamam Village, and the Namhaedaegyo Cruise dock to Chungnyeolsa Shrine. Passing Gwaneumpo, where the admiral's remains are said to have first been brought ashore, we follow the footsteps of that sorrowful funeral procession to Yi Sun-sin Sea Park. From Yi Sun-sin Sea Park, you can pass Iraksa Shrine to reach the memorial stele and Cheommangdae Observatory, from which you can look out over the sea where Admiral Yi gave his life for his country. Seen from here, Gwaneumpo is quiet today. But on that night in 1598, cannon fire, drumbeats, and the light of burning ships filled the sea. Standing before the water, imagine the sound of the drum. The admiral has already fallen, but the drum does not stop. The soldiers press forward, not knowing that their commander has died. That last drumbeat drove back the Japanese forces and marked the end of the seven-year war. When, with the cool sea breeze on your face, you reach the final destination, Chungnyeolsa Shrine in Namhae, today's meaningful journey comes to a close. Chungnyeolsa Shrine is where the admiral's remains were kept for a time before being taken to his hometown of Asan, a fitting place to quietly bow your head and honor his noble sacrifice. The Battle of Noryang section is about 11 kilometers long and follows the coast on relatively gentle terrain. Rated moderate, it takes about three hours. Rather than walking quickly, we hope you will pause for a moment at each key point, look out over the wide sea, and reflect together on the meaning of Admiral Yi's death for his country. Admiral Yi's great voyage, which began at Okpo, ended here at Noryang. Though the great star fell into the sea, his loyalty and devotion to duty until the very last moment, along with the courage of countless soldiers, still flow through these blue waters more than 400 years later. Thank you for walking with us all the way to the Battle of Noryang section, the final sea of the Yi Sun-sin Victory Trail. We hope to see you again on your next walk along the Yi Sun-sin Victory Trail.