신산공원

Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum offers a comprehensive understanding of Jeju’s history. Through its exhibits detailing how Jeju citizens triumphed over challenges while cultivating the island for agriculture, visitors witness their resilience and wisdom in life. The museum presents Jeju’s tradition and culture through its unique folklore and geological features. Together with the Natural Heritage Exhibition Hall, it highlights the magnificent landscapes of Hallasan Mountain, Seongsan Ilchulbong Tuff Cone, and the Geomunoreum Lava Tube System, all listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. In the Natural History Hall, visitors can explore the island’s origins. A major attraction is the opportunity to experience Manjanggul Cave. Additionally, the hall features a diverse array of animals and plants, including species like Dendrocopos leucotos, Brown-Eared Bulbul, Damaidae, various mushrooms and traditional tangerines. The Folklore Exhibition Halls offer insights into the ancient lifestyle on Jeju Island. The first hall recaptures Jeju’s traditional architecture and unique customs related to rites of passage, marriages, funerals, and ancestral rituals. Notably, the globally recognized Jeju Chilmeoridang Yeongdeunggut, an intangible cultural heritage, illuminates Jeju’s distinctive religious practices. The second hall displays farming and fishing tools, providing insights into the island’s agricultural lifestyles. In the Marine Exhibition Hall, a diverse range of marine life, including fish, seaweed, shellfish, and whales, is showcased. One of the notable displays is a 13m-long frame of a Bryde's whale, found and preserved in Jeju in 2004. The Outdoor Exhibition area further portrays the lives of Jeju's ancestors. For those seeking a comprehensive understanding of Jeju Island's history and nature, the Jeju Folklore and Natural History Museum is an excellent starting point for their journey.

Samseonghyeol is known as the place where the ancestors of the three clans—Yang Eulna, Go Eulna, and Bu Eulna—emerged from three holes to found the Tamna Kingdom. However, the name Samseonghyeol itself is relatively recent; until the mid-Joseon period, it was called Mohunghyeol (毛興穴). According to texts such as Tamna Ji Chobon, “The three holes were arranged in the shape of the character 品, and from them arose the Three Eulna (三乙那). When the three ‘Eul’ (乙) are combined, they form the character 毛, hence the name.” In the myth, the three divine beings (sinin) who emerged were all men. They lived by hunting animals and gathering fruits until they discovered a wooden chest drifting from the eastern sea. Inside were three women from Byeokrang-guk (碧浪國). They married the men, formed families, and thus began the Tamna Kingdom. The women also brought seeds of five grains and livestock such as cattle and horses. However, the Goryeosa Jiriji identifies the origin as Japan instead of Byeokrang-guk, leading to some debate. In any case, the Samseong myth reflects how the island’s indigenous people, once hunters and gatherers, accepted outsiders with agricultural knowledge, leading to the formation of a more advanced state system—through peaceful union represented by marriage. In 1526, Magistrate Yi Su-dong built a memorial stone (Hyeolbi) and a red gate (Hongmun) north of Samseonghyeol and instituted Confucian-style rites. From this, the site began to be sanctified, and ritual ceremonies continue to this day. Meanwhile, in 1786, Magistrate Yi Myeong-jun reported to the king: “In the past, no shrine was built here and no ancestral rites were performed. It was only Gwangyangdang, where shamans prayed and held rituals. But in the 21st year of King Jungjong, Magistrate Yi Su-dong piled an altar next to Mohunghyeol and had the descendants of the Sam Eulna perform annual rites in the second lunar month.” This suggests Samseonghyeol and Gwangyangdang were originally the same place. It also makes sense that the Gwangyangdang myth of three brothers deciding their territories with arrows overlaps with the Samseong myth. What do you think?

Boseong Market, established in 1972, is home to a bustling “sundae alley,” where about 30 shops compete fiercely. Some have even won prizes at national sundae contests, while others are beloved local favorites recommended by residents. One shop was even featured in Heo Young-man’s famous comic Sikgaek. Above all, the sundae here is affordable and generously portioned, making it popular among loyal regulars for decades—and I’m one of them. Jeju-style sundae differs slightly from that of the mainland. While mainland sundae typically uses pig small intestines, Jeju sundae is made with large intestines or the rectum, giving it a chewier texture. Pairing a bowl of Boseong Market sundae soup with a glass of Jeju makgeolli is pure happiness—you really must try it. The market is also famous for its fried chicken. For big gatherings, ordering branded chicken can be expensive, so Jeju locals often choose the market chicken known for its large portions. Many of the market chicken shops are in Boseong Market, with some operated by families for generations, preserving this tradition. Beyond the main building, a small outdoor market has also formed nearby. Here you’ll find fish shops drying seafood in the open air, friendly butchers, a grandmother’s rice cake shop famous for keeping 1990s flavors and prices, and an aromatic oil shop you shouldn’t miss. The only downside is that the outdoor market tends to close early. Adding to the charm, trendy pubs run by young people have sprung up nearby, creating a vibrant mix of old and new.

Sinsan Park is a beloved resting place for citizens in Jeju City. Along Sanjicheon Stream next to the park, native Jeju king cherry trees grow in clusters, creating a breathtaking scene of blossoms every spring. During this season, many foreign couples come to take wedding photos, and at night people gather to enjoy the spectacular cherry blossom night views. At the center of Sinsan Park stands a large monument commemorating the arrival of the Olympic flame for the 1988 Seoul Olympics in Jeju. The flame first landed here, circled the island once, and then traveled to the mainland. Just by looking at the monument, one can sense the excitement and passion of that Olympic era. To the south, a tall tower and stone markers can be seen—the Korean War Memorial. During the war, 10,000 Jeju residents served in the Army and 3,000 in the Marine Corps. The stone markers bear the names of all the soldiers, including those who died in service. Seeing them made me think, “This is how Jeju people express their gratitude to those who fought in the war.” On one side of Sinsan Park lies a gotjawal forest path, a rare sight within the city. I was amazed when I first discovered it. Beyond the king cherry trees, there are also flowering trees such as chinaberry and crape myrtle, making it both mysterious and pleasant to walk through. For tired legs after walking the Seongan Olle, this path feels like the perfect gift.

The Jeju Folklore & Natural History Museum, which opened in 1984, was designated as one of Jeju’s Outstanding Architectural Assets in 2024. The museum presents Jeju’s traditional culture, the ecology of local flora and fauna, and the everyday life of Jeju people in an accessible way. The museum has seven exhibition spaces, including the lobby. There is the Natural History Hall, which explains in detail the formation of volcanic Jeju; the Folklore Hall, displaying diverse artifacts such as leather socks and Jeju earthenware; the Modern and Contemporary Life Hall, which recreates the bustling streets of old Jeju City; and the Marine Hall, which children especially enjoy. In the Marine Hall, you can see the skeleton of a Bryde’s whale and rare marine species like the oarfish, making it a must-visit for families with children. There is also a Special Exhibition Hall for rotating exhibits and an Outdoor Exhibition Area with guardian statues and large volcanic rocks. Among these, my favorite is the Folklore Hall, because it features Jeju’s dining table. A Jeju-style table is distinct from one on the mainland. On the mainland, a stew dish is placed at the center and rice bowls are served individually. The stew, with little broth and more solid ingredients, is shared. On Jeju’s table, however, a large communal bowl of rice sits in the middle, while each person has an individual soup bowl. Soup is separate, but rice is shared—the opposite of the mainland. Why did this custom emerge? It likely relates to Jeju’s volcanic soil. Because wet-field rice farming was difficult on Jeju’s volcanic terrain, people primarily ate millet and barley. These grains were coarse and not easy to eat. Eating them with soup made them easier to swallow and created a greater sense of fullness than eating rice alone. For Jeju’s ancestors, who often faced food shortages, sharing soup was a way to feel satisfied. Even today, many Jeju people over 60 prefer soup to stew, and in many households a meal is incomplete without soup.