Maengbanghaebyeon Beach

"Haeparang Trail Course 32, running from Maengbang to Chuam Beach, is a journey through history that traces the footsteps of Isabu, the legendary general of the Silla Kingdom. The course begins at Maengbang Beach, one of the most iconic stretches of sand on Korea's east coast, distinguished by its wide, gently sloping shoreline. Rather than crashing in heavy breakers, the waves here roll in long and easy and slip quietly back out to sea. Just behind the beach lies a broad open plain that, in spring, bursts into a sea of bright yellow canola flowers. Following the line where ocean meets field, the trail climbs over Hanjae Pass. Today, Hanjae is a quiet country pass, but in centuries past, it was the only way for travelers from the south to reach Samcheok or Gangneung. Isabu himself crossed this very pass on his way from Gyeongju to take up his post in Samcheok, and King Gongyang, the last monarch of Goryeo, almost certainly traveled the same path on his journey into exile at Gungchon. Beyond the pass, the trail follows the Osipcheon Stream. Its name, meaning ""Fifty Streams,"" comes from the stream's many bends, said to require some fifty crossings to travel from its mouth to its source. For the people of Samcheok, these waters have long been the source of daily life. The International Cave Expo was once held along its banks, and on a cliff above the stream stands Jukseoru Pavilion, one of the celebrated Eight Scenic Wonders of the Gwandong region. Jukseoru is perched on what is widely considered the most beautiful clifftop along the Osipcheon Stream. The name comes from its original location, just west of a temple called Jukjangsa. Built directly atop the natural rock face, with the cliff itself serving as its foundation, the pavilion is regarded as one of the finest examples of Joseon Dynasty architecture. Rather than leveling the ground, the builders adjusted the length of each pillar to match the uneven contours of the rock beneath, a traditional technique known as “graengi”, which allows the structure to settle into its surroundings as though it had grown there naturally. Inside, the rafters are crowded with wooden tablets bearing poems and calligraphy by some of the great literary figures of their day, among them a poem composed by King Jeongjo himself, alongside works by the scholars Yi Yul-gok and Yi Seung-hyu. This site was once home to the Samcheok Dohobu, the local government office of the old administrative district. Jinjugwan, the guesthouse that once received visiting officials, has been restored, and excavation and reconstruction of the rest of the complex are still underway. Continuing downstream along the Osipcheon, just before Samcheokhang Port, you'll find the Cheokjudonghaebi Monument standing atop Yukhyangsan Hill. In earlier times, the seas off this coast were so violent that waves swept inland into the villages, and floods caused devastating damage to local residents. Moved by their suffering, the scholar Heo Mok composed an inscription said to hold mystical power and carved it onto stone in his own distinctive calligraphic style. According to local lore, once the monument was raised, the seas grew calm and the floods never returned. Believed to ward off misfortune through the strength of its words, the stele also came to be known as Toejobi, ""the Stele That Turns Back the Tides.“ Right next door is the Isabu Dokdo Memorial Center, a modern reinterpretation of General Isabu's conquest of Usan-guk and what it meant for early Korean awareness of the East Sea. Isabu was the figure who brought Usan-guk under Silla rule in the 6th century, during the reign of King Jijeung. The exhibition relies less on text and explanation than on immersive video and media art. Large-scale projections and interactive displays let visitors feel as though they are crossing the sea themselves and stepping straight into the historical moment. The exhibition space is also designed so that the interior flows out toward the ocean, letting the view of the sea become part of the exhibits themselves. Past Samcheokhang Port, the path climbs up to Naritgol Gamseong Village. This neighborhood was once home to dock workers and their families, and the steep alleys, stairways, and sea-facing houses still carry traces of the hard but honest lives once lived here. In autumn, the hilltop blushes pink with fields of pink muhly grass, drawing visitors from far and wide. Continuing past Hujin Port and Samcheok Beach, the trail keeps following Isabu's path. Beyond Sol Beach Resort, you'll come to Haega Song Site and Imhaejeong Pavilion, where the legend of Lady Suro, wife of Lord Sunjeong, has been passed down from the reign of King Seongdeok of Silla. Lady Suro, renowned for her unrivaled beauty, was traveling with her husband, who had been appointed governor of Gangneung, when they stopped at Imhaejeong Pavilion. Suddenly, a dragon rose from the sea and carried her down into the depths. The villagers gathered and sang a song to call her back, and she was returned safely to shore. That song, ""Haega,"" survives today as one of the rare lyrical pieces from the Silla Kingdom. At the end of the trail lies Isabu Lion Park, a tribute to General Isabu's conquest of Usan-guk. According to the Samguk Sagi, the Chronicles of the Three Kingdoms, Isabu loaded wooden lions onto his ships and sailed across the sea toward Usan-guk. There he threatened the islanders, declaring, ""If you do not surrender, I will set these lions loose upon you."" Terrified by the sight, the islanders gave in without a fight. The episode is read today not as mere legend but as a real chapter in Silla's gradual unification of the East Sea islands. Isabu Lion Park brings this story to life through a modern lens, blending lion sculptures with sweeping ocean viewpoints. Just beyond the park lies Chuam, with its iconic Chotdaebawi Rock rising sharply from the sea at sunrise. This is the very scene that appears in the music video of Korea's national anthem. With the sun climbing out of the East Sea behind it, the rock creates one of the most dramatic views along the entire coast, a fitting and symbolic finale to the trail."